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Helping Everyone Climb

Sport Climbing 2020 Games Schedule 🥇🥈🥉⁠

🧗🏼‍♂️Sport Climbing Men's Combined Qualification⁠
Tuesday, August 3rd⁠
Speed qualification Live 3:00 am CDT⁠
Bouldering qualification Live 4:00 am CDT ⁠
Lead qualification Live 7:10 am CDT⁠
US replay starts at 9:30 am CDT⁠

🧗🏼‍♀️Sport Climbing Women's Combined Qualification⁠
Wednesday, August 4th⁠
Speed qualification Live 3:00 am CDT⁠
Bouldering qualification Live 4:00 am CDT ⁠
Lead qualification Live 7:10 am CDT⁠
US replay starts at 9:30 am CDT⁠

🧗🏼‍♂️Sport Climbing Men's Combined Final⁠
Thursday, August 5th⁠
Speed final Live 3:30 am CDT⁠
Bouldering final Live 4:30 am CDT ⁠
Lead final Live 7:10 am CDT⁠
Medal ceremony to follow ⁠
US reply starts at 4:00 pm CDT ⁠

🧗🏼‍♀️Sport Climbing Women's Combined Final⁠
Friday, August 6th⁠
Speed final Live 3:30 am CDT⁠
Bouldering final Live 4:30 am CDT ⁠
Lead final Live 7:10 am CDT⁠
Medal ceremony to follow ⁠
US reply starts at 4:00 pm CDT ⁠
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//Behind the scenes look at Sport Climbing//⁠

Climbing Wall ⁠
@entreprisesclimbing, a long time partner of the IFSC, built the climbing walls for the Games featured in the outdoor Aomi Urban Sports Park. ⁠
Lead wall: 12 meters wide by 15 meter tall, with a prow designed to resemble the flames for the Games. ⁠
Bouldering wall: 15 meters wide by 4.5 meters tall ⁠
Speed wall: 6 by 15.5 meters tall ⁠

Holds ⁠
The IFSC created a catalogue of hold to be utilized at the Games to guarantee the highest quality setting of the Sport Climbing competitions at the Games. Brands include @cheetaholds @expressionholds @expressionholds_usa @flathold @kiltergrips @agripp_climbingholds @rockcityclimbingholds @xcultclimbing @xcultusa. ⁠

Routesetting ⁠
Percy Bishton(GBR) is the Chief Route Setter of the Games bouldering discipline, and his crew includes Manuel Hassler (SUI) Katja Vidmar (SLO) Romain Cabessut (FRA)⁠
Adam Pustelnik (POL) is the Chief routesetter of the Games Lead discipline and his crew includes Hiroshi Okano (JPN) and Jan Zbranek (CZE) ⁠

IFSC routesetters will create athletes' field of play by creating original bouldering and lead routes. Routesetters have the added unique challenge of creating a field of play with a wider range of ability for qualifications than normal in a single disciple world championship since the athletes are in a new combined format. ⁠

Check out our stories for links to articles on the climbing wall, catalogue of holds and routesetters!
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//Opening Ceremonies//⁠

Opening Ceremonies are a modern version of ceremonies steeped in the ancient Greek Games traditions. Other modern ceremonies in modern-day Games include awards ceremonies and closing ceremonies. ⁠

The ceremonies have evolved over the years and have expanded in terms of scope, size, scale, and expense with successive Games. They remain steeped in tradition and include elements including an artistic program, a parade of nations, traditional events such as the way flags are carried and the games declared open, and the flame being lit. ⁠

This year NBC primetime will feature special coverage of Team USA along with coverage of the performances, Parade of nations, and sharing the heart of the Opening Ceremony. There are several opportunities to watch the Opening Ceremony depending on your schedule, starting with LIVE coverage starting at 6:55 am ET and primetime coverage starting at 7:30 pm ET. ⁠

Streaming not during the live event will be available with a FREE Peacock (NBC) app, NBCUniversal, including the NBC Sports app. The Peacock app is also how to watch daily live coverage, recaps, and in depth documentaries of the Games. ⁠

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//Scoring Lead Climbing//

Athletes will be scored with how far they progress up the routes. Each hold is numbered based on a topo map provided by the routesetters and the higher you go, the higher your score. The climber receives points for controlling (maintaining a legitimate position) and additional partial points if the use the hold for forward movement. Different from bouldering, climbers do not have to match the finish hold, though they do have to clip to final quickdraw.

In the event of a tie, the fastest climber wins.

#leadclimbing #sportclimbing #youthnationals #climbing #usaclimbing
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//Lead Climbing// ⁠


🥅Goal: To climb as high as possible on their one attempt climbing an original route(s) clipping protection in the wall as they climb ⁠

⬆️Wall Height: Roughly 15 meters tall, consisting of 40-60 holds/moves.⁠

⏲️Time: Limit of six minutes per route ⁠

🧗🏼Skills needed: Lead climbing is all about problem-solving, endurance, power, efficiency, strategic rests, and energy conservation, and is a bit like spiderman. ⁠


#leadclimbing #youthnationals #sportclimbing
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//Scoring Speed// ⁠

Did you know that the fastest time of the event might not win in speed climbing? ⁠

Speed includes a qualification, semi-final, and final round of competition. ⁠

⬆️Qualification -each athlete has 2 attempts to procure their fastest time of the day- one attempt from each lane ⁠
⬆️The fastest 20 times move on to the semifinals ⁠
Semi-finals- each athlete has 2 attempts to procure their fastest time of the day - one attempt from each lane ⁠
⬆️The fastest 8 times move on to finals ⁠
⬆️Finals operates as a knock-out💥 round or bracket advancement with 8 climbers and the fastest in the final duel wins🥇- even though a faster time might have occurred during the day. ⁠

#competitionspeed #youthnationals #climbing #speedscoring
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//Speed Climbing//⁠

🥅Goal: Climbers race against each other for the fastest time to the top⁠

📐Wall Height: standardized 15-meter wall angled at 95 degrees⁠

⏲️Time: N/A ⁠
The Men's world record is 5.48 seconds. ⁠
The women's world record is 7.10 seconds⁠

🧗🏼Skills needed: The critical element of speed climbing is fluid motion as the climbers navigate 20 handholds and 11 footholds. This is about muscle memory, repetition, explosive power, not looking down, precise feet, preparation, flow, and a little good juju on your side for the day.

Click on our Instagram stories today to watch some speedy athletes! 🏃🏽‍♀️🏃⏳

#competitionspeed #youthnationals #climbing #speed
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Check the previous post about Bouldering Competition.⁠

//Bouldering Scoring// ⁠

So how do you score bouldering? We wish it were a vote for style points 😜⁠

Scoring in bouldering combines an average of the upward progress and number of attempts that is monitored by a judge(s) on each problem. This includes tops🔝 controlled, zones🔜 controlled, and the number of attempts to control each. ⁠

Athletes are ranked first by their tops, second by zones, and the number of attempts to each.⁠


Stay tuned for more information about Youth Competitions! ⁠

#competitionbouldering #bouldering #youthnationals #climbing
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//Competition Bouldering//⁠

Goal: ⁠
Unlocking the 4-8 moves of each original creation set by the routesetter, reaching the finish hold with both hands, and demonstrating control.⁠

Wall height: ⁠
Roughly 4.5m high of varying angles.⁠

Time: ⁠
In this Youth Nationals qualifier, there are 4 problems with 4 minutes each and a rest period between each climb. ⁠

Skills needed: ⁠
Competition bouldering emphasizes gymnastic style strength and technique and can be quite physically demanding. It is evolving to include large volumes◭◪◺◸⬥◮, parkour-like moves, and a style that is unique over the outdoor style of bouldering that many of us are more familiar with.⁠

Stay tuned for more information about Youth Competitions.🧐🧗🏻‍♀️🥇⁠

#competitionbouldering #bouldering #youthnationals #climbing
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Team Vertical- ISO. As Team Vertical head to Nationals next week, we will be covering rules and regulations about Youth Competitions.
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Before athletes begin climbing, they remain in ISO (a waiting area called “isolation”). This separates the competitors from viewing the routes or problems, talking to other climbers who have completed their climbs or talking to spectators or coaches.
In competitions, climbers prepare attempting to onsight (climbing without ever having seen the route or problem before). Climbers remain in ISO until its their turn to climb. During this time athletes entertain themselves, catch up with other climbers, stay fed/hydrated and warmed up.

Stay tuned for fun stories of the Youth Nationals this Tuesday 7/13.
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USA Climbing is hosting a Youth C & D Festival this weekend at the Reno Sparks Convention center in Las Vegas, NV. Before you sign off and say, thats not for me, we wanted to take this opportunity where our US youth are learning about competition climbing to learn with them in preparation for the upcoming Olympics.
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The Climbing Festival is a once a year, 2 and a half day event for kids and parents to learn about competition climbing without the stress of competing.
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The young climbers learn about ISO and warm up strategies, goal setting💯, mental toughness😆, speed sequences📈, and nutrition🍎.

Parents learn about the trajectory of competition climbing including inclusion, rules and judging info, collegiate climbing (and the move towards varsity sport and scholarships💰, and parenting tips for the competition climber(climber emoji).
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While this festival is prepping the next generation of athletes and parents for the arena of competitive climbing we are going to dig into a few of the same topics and prep for the Olympics.🧗🏼🥇🥈🥉

We want to give a shoutout to Asher, who will be participating this weekend. Sending the best of luck and hope this experience is memorable for him and the parent. 🤗
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Not everyone has life’s essentials. Join us in this month’s Food Drive for the Worthington Resource Pantry.

Most needed items: diapers, shampoo/conditioner/ toothpaste, canned chicken and tuna, coup.

10 donated items = 1 Free Day Pass
Limit 1 pass per person per day

When: July 12-16th
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We still have availability in Summer Camps! Sign up at bit.ly/summerclimbing and check it out.⁠

#youthsports #summercamp #rockclimbing
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Happy Juneteenth! ✊🏿✊🏾✊🏽✊🏼
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Juneteenth celebrates the liberation of those who had been held as slaves in the United States, long after the Emancipation Proclamation had been signed.
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These last 12 months have been a learning and growing experience for everyone within 5.Life. One year ago, we made a commitment to dedicate more time and effort to equalizing the racial disparities within our climbing community. As we look back on the year, we’re proud of the progress that we’ve made, but not yet happy with what we’ve accomplished. We look forward to continuing this progress through new events, partnerships, and opportunities as we transition out of this Covid era.
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Last year, we made a Juneteenth donation to the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center in Cincinnati. This year we’re committing our day pass sales from Juneteenth to the Black Queer & Intersectional Collective, a grassroots community org working for the liberation of Black LGBTQIA+ folks through direct action, community organizing, & creating spaces.
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#Juneteenth2021 #Juneteenth
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If you’ve been waiting to get some punch passes, here’s your chance! They dont expired and you get 3 FREE ones on top.🙌🏽
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Starting today, stop at any location to purchase the punches!

#bakersdozen #punchpasses #climb614
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25% off ALL shoes, all month long! Stop by any 5.Life facility to try them on.⁠

*no discount stacking.⁠
**while supplies last.⁠

#shoesale⁠
#sale #rockclimbing
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All 5.Life locations will be closed on Memorial Day.
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Reminder Veterans and Active Duty Military can climb for FREE on May 30th.

#memorialday #climb614 #asseenincolumbus
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Thanks for hangin'!⁠

#blocgarten #climbingby5life #bouldering
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