Mask required at all times while in any 5.Life facility
Helping Everyone Climb
Do you know the local Sport Climbing areas near you?🧐 Here's some suggestions of areas in Ohio.
Marne Road:
This crag has techy climbing, low angle slab, steep and powerful, hard pocket pulling, and some fun crack climbing. It has everything from 5.5 to 5.13 and V1 to V8. *No parking on Marne Road*
Mad River Gorge:
This crag has a mix of sport, trad, and bouldering at the park. Please stop by the kiosk and sign into the visitors log. This helps with visitor numbers for the CCPD and OCC.
Flat Rock:
A climbing area with many historic ascents, climbing became legally official in July 2021. As in right now, this crag has 13 Top Rope climbs. It is located in Keller Kirn Park.
Big shoutout to the Ohio Climbers Coalition and to everyone who put in the work into developing these areas.
For more information and details, download the Mtn Project app.
#climb614 #sportclimbing #localclimbing #accessmatter
Hey Members, do you know that you can refer a friend for a FREE Rope 101?
Details:
Refer a friend at the Welcome Desk to take the Rope 101 class. The class includes 2 free weeks of climbing with gear included at all 5.Life locations.
Make your friends into climbing friends 😎
#memberbenefit #rope101 #climb614 #5life #asseenincolumbus
Missing our @climb_nittany family. So here's a throwback to the hard hat tour.😍
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Have you visited this location? If yes, let us know your thoughts. Reminder, your membership is available at this location, one rules them all.
Go check it out and say hello to the family for us👋🏼
#climbnittany #climb814 #5Life #climbpa
All 5.Life locations will be closed for Labor Day on Monday. Take the day off and enjoy it with friends and family🤗
#climb614 #laborday #5life
MASKS REQUIRED FOR ALL, AT ALL TIMES.
We are very sad to announce that Franklin County has moved into the “Substantial” risk category for COVID-19. As always, 5.life follows CDC guidelines to help protect our community and keep everyone healthy. Therefore, beginning August 7, masks will be required at all times while at any 5.life facility, regardless of vaccination status.
Thank you for your continued cooperation and for being a part of the 5.life family.
When the mountains call, you should be able to answer. Protect your access to outdoor climbing by adding $1 per month to your membership dues and 5.Life will match it.
We are thankful for the access to so many outdoor places. Continue to give back! ⛰️ 🧗🏽♂️ ☀️
📸: @cjpetrilla
#onedollarforaccess #theoutdoors #giveback #Acessmatters
OLYMPIC WATCH PARTIES- SPORT CLIMBING
We are teaming up with Nocterra Brewing to show replays of the Men’s & Women’s qualifying rounds and finals. Come have a 🍺 and hang out with your fellow 🧗🏻♀️🧗🏾♂️s.
Date: Starts TODAY-August 6th
Time: 6pm
Location: Nocterra Brewing
For more details follow @nocterrabrewing
Don't miss out on the fun!
#climb614 #sportclimbing #2020Games #climbing #nocterrabrewing
Top 10 lingo and moves for Lead
1. Clip - the point at which you attach your rope to the quickdraw. This requires a stable stance where the climber can take one hand off the climbing wall to grab the rope and move it into the quickdraw.
2. Belay - to protect a roped climber from falling to the ground by controlling the movement of the rope.
3. Pumped - a tight swollen burning sensation that occurs in the forearms as a result of lactic acid buildup.
4. Heel Hook - Position of pulling with your heel on the climbing wall or hold which holds your body close to the wall and assists in maintaining overall body tension.
5. Crux - the most difficult section of the climbing route. This can include a single move or a series of moves.
Click our story to learn the last 5 lingo and moves for Lead.
#sportclimbing #2020games #lead #climbing #5life
Top 10 lingo and moves for Bouldering
1. Paddle dyno - a dyno so large and explosive that a climber needs to “paddle” through intermediary holds en route to the target hold to maintain their momentum and trajectory.
2. Campus- is climbing hand over hand without the use of your feet on climbing holds. Common training technique to increase the athletes’ power on overhanging terrain.
3.Beta - climbing jargon that designates how to execute a climbing problem or route. The beta can range wildly from climber to climber depending on size, height, wingspan, style, and routesetter intention.
4. Dyno - is when a climber makes a dynamic movement using momentum to launch across a significant distance from one hold to the next. It is NOT a controlled reach or stretch.
5. Sloper - are often larger, round holds that do not have a positive gradient. This means your hand remains quite open when holding and you do not have the advantage of your finger strength to keep you on the hold.
Checkout our Story to learn the last 5 lingo and moves for Bouldering.
Big shoutout to our great model climber
@tylerguid 😎
#bouldering #lingoandmoves #2020Games #climbing
Top 10 lingo and moves for Speed
1. Speed holds - Unique hand and footholds specific to speed climbing.
2. Standard route - The speed route is a standardized route identical on both sides of the wall.
3. Overhanging - The climbing wall is slightly overhanging at a 95-degree angle.
4. Auto-Belay - This is the system the climbers use to stay safe while climbing. It attaches to the climber's harness with a carabiner and has a braking system that works to arrest the climber's fall and slowly lower the climber back to the ground.
5. False Start:🦶🏼 climber's foot comes off of the pressure pad before the first beep. Results in a loss of attempt. If it is on their first run during qualification, they will be placed last for their second attempt. If it's in a semis or final round, they are re-seeded in a lower bracket for lower final placing.
6. Sequence - The climbers practice the route ALOT (upwards of 100 times in a single training session) and have their own unique sequence and style up the speed route.
7. Micro-beta - Beyond the repetition, the climbers work out the tiny details of each section of the route usually by filming and analyzing their attempts learning where they can optimize for efficiency and speed.
8. Speed records - The current Men’s record is 5.208 seconds from Veddriq Leonardo of Indonesia and the current Women’s record is 6.964 Luliia Kaplina of Russia
9. Reza: named for Reza Alipour, a previous speed record holder, started a trend of skipping the third hold entirely since it is off-center and moving right to left is one of the things that slows a speed climber down. Note, many climbers also skip the fourth from the last hold that is also way left of center.
10. Toma Skip - using a “step-up dyno” instead of the previously used move left and slingshot upright start to the speed route.
#speedclimbing #speed #lingoandmoves #2020Games
Sport Climbing 2020 Games Schedule 🥇🥈🥉
🧗🏼♂️Sport Climbing Men's Combined Qualification
Tuesday, August 3rd
Speed qualification Live 3:00 am CDT
Bouldering qualification Live 4:00 am CDT
Lead qualification Live 7:10 am CDT
US replay starts at 9:30 am CDT
🧗🏼♀️Sport Climbing Women's Combined Qualification
Wednesday, August 4th
Speed qualification Live 3:00 am CDT
Bouldering qualification Live 4:00 am CDT
Lead qualification Live 7:10 am CDT
US replay starts at 9:30 am CDT
🧗🏼♂️Sport Climbing Men's Combined Final
Thursday, August 5th
Speed final Live 3:30 am CDT
Bouldering final Live 4:30 am CDT
Lead final Live 7:10 am CDT
Medal ceremony to follow
US reply starts at 4:00 pm CDT
🧗🏼♀️Sport Climbing Women's Combined Final
Friday, August 6th
Speed final Live 3:30 am CDT
Bouldering final Live 4:30 am CDT
Lead final Live 7:10 am CDT
Medal ceremony to follow
US reply starts at 4:00 pm CDT
//Behind the scenes look at Sport Climbing//
Climbing Wall
@entreprisesclimbing, a long time partner of the IFSC, built the climbing walls for the Games featured in the outdoor Aomi Urban Sports Park.
Lead wall: 12 meters wide by 15 meter tall, with a prow designed to resemble the flames for the Games.
Bouldering wall: 15 meters wide by 4.5 meters tall
Speed wall: 6 by 15.5 meters tall
Holds
The IFSC created a catalogue of hold to be utilized at the Games to guarantee the highest quality setting of the Sport Climbing competitions at the Games. Brands include @cheetaholds @expressionholds @expressionholds_usa @flathold @kiltergrips @agripp_climbingholds @rockcityclimbingholds @xcultclimbing @xcultusa.
Routesetting
Percy Bishton(GBR) is the Chief Route Setter of the Games bouldering discipline, and his crew includes Manuel Hassler (SUI) Katja Vidmar (SLO) Romain Cabessut (FRA)
Adam Pustelnik (POL) is the Chief routesetter of the Games Lead discipline and his crew includes Hiroshi Okano (JPN) and Jan Zbranek (CZE)
IFSC routesetters will create athletes' field of play by creating original bouldering and lead routes. Routesetters have the added unique challenge of creating a field of play with a wider range of ability for qualifications than normal in a single disciple world championship since the athletes are in a new combined format.
Check out our stories for links to articles on the climbing wall, catalogue of holds and routesetters!
//Opening Ceremonies//
Opening Ceremonies are a modern version of ceremonies steeped in the ancient Greek Games traditions. Other modern ceremonies in modern-day Games include awards ceremonies and closing ceremonies.
The ceremonies have evolved over the years and have expanded in terms of scope, size, scale, and expense with successive Games. They remain steeped in tradition and include elements including an artistic program, a parade of nations, traditional events such as the way flags are carried and the games declared open, and the flame being lit.
This year NBC primetime will feature special coverage of Team USA along with coverage of the performances, Parade of nations, and sharing the heart of the Opening Ceremony. There are several opportunities to watch the Opening Ceremony depending on your schedule, starting with LIVE coverage starting at 6:55 am ET and primetime coverage starting at 7:30 pm ET.
Streaming not during the live event will be available with a FREE Peacock (NBC) app, NBCUniversal, including the NBC Sports app. The Peacock app is also how to watch daily live coverage, recaps, and in depth documentaries of the Games.
Youth Nationals 2021 in the books! 🤩🤩
This week was a roller coaster ride of emotions and lots of adrenaline. Team Vertical performed their best despite the nerves and many more obstacles.
We are looking forward for next season, lots of room for growth and improvement. It was a long exhausting week but also filled with fun and many shenanigans. We got to watch some strong climbers and meet Meagan Martin. Post coming soon about interviewing her!
Overall, it was a blast watching each athlete climb and push their limits. Congrats to all who made it to Nationals and competed.
Stay tuned for more updates about Team Vertical and the upcoming season.
#youthnationals #sportclimbing #bouldering #usaclimbing #climbing #teamvertical
//Scoring Lead Climbing//
Athletes will be scored with how far they progress up the routes. Each hold is numbered based on a topo map provided by the routesetters and the higher you go, the higher your score. The climber receives points for controlling (maintaining a legitimate position) and additional partial points if the use the hold for forward movement. Different from bouldering, climbers do not have to match the finish hold, though they do have to clip to final quickdraw.
In the event of a tie, the fastest climber wins.
#leadclimbing #sportclimbing #youthnationals #climbing #usaclimbing
//Lead Climbing//
🥅Goal: To climb as high as possible on their one attempt climbing an original route(s) clipping protection in the wall as they climb
⬆️Wall Height: Roughly 15 meters tall, consisting of 40-60 holds/moves.
⏲️Time: Limit of six minutes per route
🧗🏼Skills needed: Lead climbing is all about problem-solving, endurance, power, efficiency, strategic rests, and energy conservation, and is a bit like spiderman.
#leadclimbing #youthnationals #sportclimbing
//Scoring Speed//
Did you know that the fastest time of the event might not win in speed climbing?
Speed includes a qualification, semi-final, and final round of competition.
⬆️Qualification -each athlete has 2 attempts to procure their fastest time of the day- one attempt from each lane
⬆️The fastest 20 times move on to the semifinals
Semi-finals- each athlete has 2 attempts to procure their fastest time of the day - one attempt from each lane
⬆️The fastest 8 times move on to finals
⬆️Finals operates as a knock-out💥 round or bracket advancement with 8 climbers and the fastest in the final duel wins🥇- even though a faster time might have occurred during the day.
#competitionspeed #youthnationals #climbing #speedscoring
//Speed Climbing//
🥅Goal: Climbers race against each other for the fastest time to the top
📐Wall Height: standardized 15-meter wall angled at 95 degrees
⏲️Time: N/A
The Men's world record is 5.48 seconds.
The women's world record is 7.10 seconds
🧗🏼Skills needed: The critical element of speed climbing is fluid motion as the climbers navigate 20 handholds and 11 footholds. This is about muscle memory, repetition, explosive power, not looking down, precise feet, preparation, flow, and a little good juju on your side for the day.
Click on our Instagram stories today to watch some speedy athletes! 🏃🏽♀️🏃⏳
#competitionspeed #youthnationals #climbing #speed
Check the previous post about Bouldering Competition.
//Bouldering Scoring//
So how do you score bouldering? We wish it were a vote for style points 😜
Scoring in bouldering combines an average of the upward progress and number of attempts that is monitored by a judge(s) on each problem. This includes tops🔝 controlled, zones🔜 controlled, and the number of attempts to control each.
Athletes are ranked first by their tops, second by zones, and the number of attempts to each.
Stay tuned for more information about Youth Competitions!
#competitionbouldering #bouldering #youthnationals #climbing
//Competition Bouldering//
Goal:
Unlocking the 4-8 moves of each original creation set by the routesetter, reaching the finish hold with both hands, and demonstrating control.
Wall height:
Roughly 4.5m high of varying angles.
Time:
In this Youth Nationals qualifier, there are 4 problems with 4 minutes each and a rest period between each climb.
Skills needed:
Competition bouldering emphasizes gymnastic style strength and technique and can be quite physically demanding. It is evolving to include large volumes◭◪◺◸⬥◮, parkour-like moves, and a style that is unique over the outdoor style of bouldering that many of us are more familiar with.
Stay tuned for more information about Youth Competitions.🧐🧗🏻♀️🥇
#competitionbouldering #bouldering #youthnationals #climbing